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Build A Dining Room Table

Build A Dining Room Table 

part 2

We continued using the patterns to cut the veneers to shape, (photo 13), and started to "lay up" the sections. Once the outer sections were completed, we laid the pieces on the table, to get a visual on the progress. (photo 14).

The next step was to make up a "packet" of the pieces to be used on the oval. This entails cutting our veneer to length. Note the pieces in the packet (photo 15), have blue tape on the edges, as well as where they will be cut into wedges. The reason for the tape is to prevent the  Sapele from splitting while being cut. This particular veneer is susceptible to splitting, and the tape will prevent that. Also take note to the fact that the packet is taped to 1/4" plywood. A matching top piece of plywood will be screwed to the bottom piece, forming a sandwich. We then are able to rip all the wedges on the table saw, using a taper jig, in two passes. This process saves alot of time in many joining processes, pertaining to getting a perfect edge for joining the peices together. We used the same technique to cut the long center sections of the birds eye maple for the field area of the table, without the taper jig of course.

Photo 16 shows the face side of the radial pattern laid up into a circle, and must now be recut to form an oval. In order to get a perfect cut on both the sapale and the birds eye maple, we made a lexan template, and used it to guide the scalple. Again, we used blue tape on both side of the veneer, to prevent any splits. A second benefit to the tape is the knife is less likely to follow the grain in the wood. The scalple is held on a slight angle, which results in a slight angle on the veneer. The cutting is done on the face side, so when we join the pieces, we'll get tighter joints. The process of cutting is slow, as we use very light passes with the knife. This would be a bad time to have the scalple wander off the pattern, so patience is a must. Photo 17 show the placement for the oval.

Photo 18 shows the oval after having been inlaid, and once the field veneer is taped in it's final position we will be able to use a home made scribing tool, (photo 19), which has a scalple blade tightly fastened in place. A stop screwed onto the back end will position the blade  the desired distance from the edge of the table. Photo 20 shows the scribe in use. Again, light cuts will prevent mistakes. Also, it's very important that the veneer can't move. Once all four edges have been cut the pre made borders can be added. The field veneer can be used as a pattern for this. Again, the blue tape will come into play, as it increases the thickness for the knife to ride against. As the pieces are cut, they are fastened with veneer tape. This process swells the veneer from the moisture in the tape, and begins to look like a big mess. Not to worry, as it will shrink back, once it's dry, and will actually pull the joints tighter together.

Photo 24 shows the glue side of the laid up veneer, with all the blue tape removed. The swelling has started to receed, and once it's completely dry, we'll put it in the vacuum bag.

Part Three

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